MALLORCAN PSICOBLOC

By Daimon Beail

Mallorca is part of the Spanish Island chain known as the Balearics, which is in the Mediterranean. As well as being a hot tourist spot in the summer months it is also home to a wealth of climbing, most specifically, deep water soloing. The DWS climbing in Mallorca is first class - stunning limestone cliffs covered in pockets, jugs, crimps and tufas, catering for many styles. The many routes available go from as small as five metres to as big as twenty and grades range from 4+ to 8a, most of which carry the S0 tag. There is little or no tide in the Med, something that can become a pain in places like the UK, so the only things to look out for are: rough sea conditions and the possibility of strong currents.

What is Psicobloc?

Psicobloc is the native Mallorcan climber's term for deep water soloing.
Psico = Psycho
Bloc = Bouldering
Psicobloc should be used as the official name for deep water soloing in Mallorca.

To get in contact or to submit any information email us at mail@dwsworld.com


Malloran PsicoblocMallorcan Psicobloc. A deep water soloing guide to Mallorca.

Featuring: Porto Cristo, Cala Marcal, Cala Sa Nau, Santanyi, Soller, Sa Calobra. Also Contains info on: Cala Mitjana, Cala Barques (formally known as Cala Varquer)
Available to download from ROCKFAX now!



Image of Sa Calobra

Sa Calobra

Sa Calobra is a beautiful spot that can get very busy with tourists, which means your climbing activity will cause rounds of applause every now and then. It's a more relaxed venue compared to Porto Cristo with routes never exceeding fifteen metres. The climbing is found at the mouth of the "Torrent-De-Pareis", which in the winter months has been known on the odd occasion, after heavy rain, to become the mouth of a fast flowing river. This is very rare, but the evidence of the river meeting the sea, is presented in the form of a pebble-mounded beach, that slopes sharply into the sea. The climbing is currently limited but there are many more possibilities out there. A boat is recommended, as some of the routes are difficult to pull onto from the sea. If you decide to visit "Tufa Land" take a backup flotation device, because if your boat bursts you're going to have a long swim back.

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Image of Port De Soller

Port De Soller

Port De Soller's DWS crag is a quiet little gem which is difficult to get to hence it is hidden away from the crowds. It's bigger than it looks from the beach but there is nothing higher than 10 meters except at the end, where the crag rises to around fifteen meters. This crag is best visited if you happen to be staying in the area. Don't go out of your way especially if you're enjoying the delights of the east coast. There is a lot more to do here but nothing amazing except for the far right-hand side of the crag where it is at it's highest. The entire crag is undercut and in most places the sea floor is way under you. On the other side of the bay there is a fantastic looking cave with a lighthouse on top. Unfortunately this is military owned and it is strongly recommended you stay well clear of it.

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Cala Santanyi & Es Pontas

Cala Santanyi & Es Pontas

Climbing is limited, but there is stuff to be done. It's great fun especially the cave route 'super sonic'. More climbing traffic is needed on some routes, as some of the holds are a bit frail. There are also a number of small problems doted around the archway at Es Pontas, but getting there is not easy.

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Image of Cala Mitjana

Cala Mitjana

Further southwest down the coast from Cala Sa Nau is Cala Mitjana. A fantastic cliff of good height offering steep and often hard climbs. It is only a 15 min walk from the Cala Sa Nau crag and is easily recognisable from the ship-like mast which is situated on top of the crag.

There is also a new area, which has been heavily developed further south down the coast. Stay tuned.

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Image of Cala Sa Nau

Cala Sa Nau

Cala Sa Nau is a small sandy cove sheltered from the sea by two headlands, one of which is home to an exciting DWS venue. The headland on the right-hand side of the bay (looking out to sea) starts quite small on the left and increases in height the further right you go. At its far right side is a large cave where most of the hard climbing can be found. If you continue right, round the headland, you will see a small cove with a mini-cave at the back. This is where virgin Deep Water Soloers should hang out; although the climbing is limited here, it can keep you entertained for a few hours with short, mid-grade lines.

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Image of Cala Marcal

Cala Marcal

Cala Marcal is a newly developed area but it seems that one or two of the locals or visiting tourists may have had a go at the odd traverse previously. There are two areas to the crag: The Cala Wall Area and the Main Cliff. Both are easily reached from the parking at the top. In fact this may be the first DWS roadside crag. On a safety note it is worth mentioning that exits can be tricky here. It is possible to scramble out at one or two places but the climbing from these points to the top is hard. You are best advised to bring a rope ladder for safer exits.

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Image of Cala Barques

Cala Barques

This is where many of the DWS masters have been hanging out for the past few years. Cala Barques is home to some of Mallorca's most beautiful caves, coves and grottos. At the heart of it all is a beautiful golden beach. There are lots of routes to do and pretty much all the lines have been done.

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Image of Porto Cristo

Porto Cristo

Some would describe "Cove Del Diable" as being for the hardcore DWS super star, and they would probably be right. Twenty metre high cliffs and steep routes are a nightmare for some but a fantastic dream for others. The cove showcases an awesome overhanging wave of limestone covered in jugs, pockets and crimps. To the right-hand side, looking inward from the sea, the walls become more vertical and turn into virtual slab climbs. Although it is an intimidating environment the climbing is not as bad as it first appears. Before long you may well find yourself tackling a juggy 6c or even a 7a+. The highlight for many is the awe-inspiring Superwoman 7a+ that combines every climbing style imaginable. There is no doubt that you will find something that will inspire and motivate you to make a return trip, as every route at Diablo deserves a star rating.
Porto Cristo new routes

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