MALLORCA

The Mediterranean island of Mallorca is now well known as a sport-climbing destination. Since the last Rockfax in 2006, it has also established itself as the home of Europe's best deep water soloing. The current edition of the Mallorca Rockfax brings together all the sport and DWS into one book. The sport section includes seven crags plus new routes and sectors that haven't appeared in previous books before, The DWS section is a fully comprehensive guide to all the DWS venues on the Island. Now Rockfax brings you an update to enhance the current information in the Mallorca Rockfax guide. Introducing 64 new lines, 6 attainable open projects, 5 existing lines with enhanced information and 11 reintroduced lines from the west coast. All of which can be found at 12 DWS venues around the island, of which three are entirely new and are appearing here for the first time.
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Mallorca Rockfax Guide

"The Mediterranean island of Mallorca is now well-known as a sport climbing destination. Since the last Rockfax in 2006, it has also established itself as the home of Europe's best deep water soloing. This latest edition of the Mallorca Rockfax (our 6th Mallorca publication in 15 years!) brings together all the sport and DWS into one book. The sport section includes seven crags that haven't appeared in our previous books plus many new routes and sectors at the existing crags, and the DWS section combines the work from the Rockfax book Deep Water, and the Rockfax PDF MiniGuide Mallorca Deep Water Soloing. The style is in the new glorious full-colour format and features many new crag and action photos. The sport climbing is being written by Alan James and Mark Glaister, and the deep water soloing section is being written by Daimon Beail. The Mallorca Rockfax is the essential companion to your holiday visit to this wonderful island."

Mallorca DWS Update

"The Deep Water Soloing mecca that is Mallorca is an ever expanding place, and this update to the 2011 Rockfax guidebook covers more deep water soloing across the Island. Described in this update are 64 new lines, 6 attainable open projects, 5 existing lines with enhanced information and 11 reintroduced lines from the west coast. All of which can be found at 12 DWS venues across the island, of which three are entirely new and are appearing here for the first time. Updated Crags: The Tower of Falcons, Cala Barques, Porto Colom – Lighthouse, Cala Marcal, Cala Sa Nau, Cala Mitjana, Cala Serena, Sa Calobra New crags: Cova Des Burador, Cala Brafia, Cala Estreta and Port De Soller".

Areas

The following is a list of DWS areas on the island with brief information about each area. In addition, small pictures of the guides where Topos and information can be found.
= Info available in the Rockfax Mallorca guide.
= Info available in the Mallorca DWS Updated guide.

Cova Del Diablo

Diablo is probably the world mecca for DWS. Holding some of the best solos on the island, which were fully unearthed back in 2001. This pocketed wall towers to a challenging 18 metres above the sea and offers a variety of high quality test pieces for all to enjoy. Some classics to experiment with are ‘Superwoman’ 7a+, ‘Afroman’ 7b and ‘Ejector Seat’ 7c. Generally visited by those climbing in the 7s and 8s but also offering additional lower-grade lines to enjoy.

Porto Cristo – Tower of Falcons

Just south of Porto Cristo lies what could be described as ‘the Mother of all caves’ The prize of this venue has to be Chris Sharma’s ‘La Hostia’ 8a+ that starts at the back of the cave and makes its way right out over the horizontal roof. The Tower of Falcons also saw a significant addition in 2007 called Red Tide, 8a that climbs the red coloured wall to the right of the cave.

Porto Cristo Novo


A stunning cave that is unfortunately a hot spot for tourist boat trips in the holiday months. This is possibly one of Mallorca’s future realms for hard lines. Covered in stunning stalactites but difficult to get too, this is a futuristic but quiet venue to visit.

Cala Barques


This is Mallorca’s soloing playground. Offering a unique selection of caves and overhanging walls with the added attraction of the fearsome Tarantino wall to increase your adrenaline level! A good surf spot when those autumn storms come rolling in and a popular area for Slacklining. The height is reduced to a more manageable size (compared to the likes of Diablo) and along with its variety of quality lines, this makes Barques a very popular venue.

Porto Colom – Cova Des Burador


The large cliff that includes Dominion Wall has now been explored and in some areas developed. It holds a number of lines which for some may be a little on the high side except for the far left of the cliff where the height is reduced.

Porto Colom - Lighthouse


If bouldering is your game then you’re most probably heading to the lighthouse area. Short roof climbs in a sheltered cove with the option to extend if desired provide hours of fun.

Cala Marcal


Mallorca’s best roadside DWS venue and great for anyone looking for a bit more height in their lines but enjoys climbing in the low to mid grades. This crag rises to around 16 meters in height with most lines climbing easy angled walls. A small number of overhanging routes are available to keep the daring happy. Additional lines have been added to the left of the area of which there is room for more.

Cala Brafia


Brafia holds almost 20 new lines with comfortable heights of 10m to 13m. The main cliffs where eleven lines have been established require a traverse from the left side along a large hand rail. Many of them begin with a short roof crossing and in some cases tricky manoeuvres onto the upper face. Perhaps the most significant line here is ‘Stigmata’ a 6c+ that combine steep climbing to a technical crimpy upper wall. To the right of the main wall and more in the Bay area are five more lines. Chief amongst them is Bernard Exley’s stab in the dark line of ‘Third Time Lucky’ 7a that climbs a short roof with difficulty, a good one for boulderers up for a splash down.

Cala Estreta


This spectacular cave is commonly known as the ‘Cala Estreta Cave’ but can be seen on some maps marked as Cova d’en Jeroni. A slowly rising horizontal roof looks impossible at first glance, but upon closer inspection is impregnated with pockets and in some cases - jugs. Ethan Pringle did find a way across the roof back in 2007 leaving the line of ‘An Inconvenient Roof’ at a grand grade of 8b. But if you’re not climbing 8b then it may be worth climbing the lines on the left and right sides of the cave. Perhaps ‘As Good as it Gets’ graded at 6a+ which is a great line to try but the grade of 6a+ may feel a little under graded to some.

Cala Sa Nau


The immense powerhouse of the Hupolup Kempf cave houses a small number of cutting-edge lines at the high-end of the grade spectrum. Climb with care, as the falls are big! At the other end of the scale and luckily within close proximity is the virgin area. This is an excellent area for the first time soloer. Easy angled walls covered with a nice selection of low-grade lines. As an added bonus the area is also within walking distance of Cala Mitjanta for when you’re ready to step it up a level.

Cala Mitjana


Best visited on the same day as Cala Sa Nau and accommodates a number of ‘island classics’! Gently overhanging and keeping lines to a manageable height, routes such as ‘Illuminations’ 6b will carry those more confident climbers into the more challenging grades. Harder lines such as the famous project ‘Animal Magnetism’ and one or two additions keep those number-thirsty crankers happy. The neighbouring cave in the bay offers plenty of fun lines and the occasional tricky number. More recently the impressive and towering wall to the far right of the main Cala Mitjana wall has had a good number of lines added. On the prominent overhanging wall three lines were established, and Tom Le Fanu’s ‘Enter the Kraken’ 6b+ delivers a 3 star addition to the area. Further right round the corner is a very nice wall now full of easy, but notably high lines. Terry Wall (dedicated to the late Terry Harrington) has 5 lines to explore of which ‘Terry-nova’ 6a+ offers the best here. Although tricky at half height, the top half is much easier and only requires a so-called spacewalk finish.

Cala Serena


Mallorca’s DWS equivalent to Stanage, being the largest venue on the island with over one hundred lines in total. The golden juggy walls low down are in most cases followed by thinner and more technical sections above. They’re all pretty much at an ideal height (between 12 to 18 metres) and the lines are situated on a variety of different angled walls.

Cala Santanyi


Short and relatively easy lines located in the same vicinity as the sport-climbing venue of Tijuana. This is an idea for those seeking a splash in hot weather or wishing to give DWS a try.

Santanyi - Es Pontas


Still seen as a historic landmark in the climbing world, as hosting one of the hardest routes and without question the hardest deep water solo on earth. The arch offers little more than hard, extreme lines, the king of them all being Chris Sharma's 'Es Pontas' 9a+ / 9b.

Cala Llombards


Two small isolated venues, which have proven popular with the elite for a number of years. Climbs sit mostly in the higher end of the grade spectrum and tackle steep caves and thin upper walls, which have proven difficult, even for the best amongst us!

Cala Mondrago


One last place that’s worth noting on the East Coast and has been visited a few times is Cala Mondrago. Lines have been established and the main reason for this is family members sneaking off to find some DWS and falling upon an apparently good cave and wall area.

Porto Pi


A spot ideal for your last day before heading to the airport for that plane home or perhaps a good choice if going for a long weekend visits. Porto Pi is a small but popular crag situated near Palma’s shipping docks. This is also home to the first Deep Water Solos on the island and possibly the world.

South West - Easy Bloc


The west coast is still growing, especially within the easy bloc department. Although these venues are small there are proving to be popular with people staying in the area especially those getting to grips with DWS.

Port De Soller


The area of Port De Soller still remains an exclusive venue for the connoisseur soloer staying in the area. A small number of lines have also been added to the area and developments are being made further out of the bay (boat required) and also the nearby cave on the other side of the port is probably worth seeking out but very hard to find.

Sa Calobra


An area of outstanding natural beauty perched on the western edge of the ‘Serra de Tramuntana’ mountain range. Quite a trek to get to but you’ll be rewarded with a stunning setting. Climbing can attract many onlookers, and occasional rounds of applause - it gets incredibly busy in the holiday seasons.